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© Carrie Solomon

L’Avant Comptoir de la Mer

Fish-centric outpost of Yves Camdeborde's informal dining chain

3 Carrefour de l’Odéon
75006 Paris,
M° Odéon

In 2009, Yves opened his first wine and ‘mini-portions’ bar next door to his flagship restaurant like a sort of waiting room. Today, his three and counting Avant Comptoirs are exquisitely informal spots to drop in for a hit of popular French dining culture – open nonstop from noon to midnight – squished up at the zinc bar. This branch focuses on fish and seafood.