Yves Camdeborde is credited with pioneering the “bistronomy” movement in Paris in the early 1990s, marrying the relaxed atmosphere and prices of a local bistro with the ambition and technique of French haute gastronomie. Today he’s at the head of a small empire at the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, comprising a boutique hotel, his restaurant le Comptoir du Relais, and a constellation of wine bars called l’Avant-Comptoir. The recipe remains the same for each: good food and good vibes centred around great produce.